Left Crank Arm
 New Old Stock Shimano 600EX Left Crankarm 170 mmShopwear US $69.99 
|
 BICYCLE LEFT CRANK ARM FOR SQUARE TAPER 170 MM BLACK US $18.95
|
 BICYCLE LEFT CRANK ARM FOR SQUARE TAPER 175 MM BLACK US $18.95
|
 NOS Shimano Dura Ace FC 7700 Left Hand Crank Arm 175mm US $40.00
|
 NOS Shimano 600 FC 6400 Left Hand Crank Arm 1675mm US $20.00
|
 CANNONDALE cx2 CODA 170mm left side Crank Arm used974 b US $23.99
|
 BICYCLE LEFT CRANK ARM FOR SQUARE TAPER 170 MM SILVER US $18.95
|
 BICYCLE LEFT CRANK ARM FOR SQUARE TAPER 175 MM BLACK US $13.95
|
 VINTAGE SUGINO BRIGHT FINISH CRANK ARM LEFT 170 MM US $9.99
|
 SRAM Force 175mm GXP Left Crank Arm US $121.54
|
 Vintage Raleigh Left Hand Cottered Crankarm 6 1 2 165MM 1960s or 1970s US $4.99
|
 1725 left Campagnolo crank arm US $29.99
|
 FSA Self Extracting Left Crank Arm Bolt for Carbon Mega US $11.93
|
 Shimano Dura Ace FC7900 1725mm Left Crank Arm Unit US $208.75
|
 Ultegra FC6700 1725mm Left Crank Arm Unit US $92.21
|
 SRAM Force 1725mm GXP Left Crank Arm US $117.91
|
 Shimano FC R600 Left Bicycle Bike Crank Arm 1725mm US $39.99
|
 New Miche Race Splined Road Bike Left Crankarm 1725mm US $19.99
|
 SRAM Red 1725 GXP left crank arm US $158.21
|
 XTR M985 175mm Left Crank Arm Unit US $189.86
|
 Shimano Ultegra FC 6601G 1725mm Left Crank Arm US $105.20
|
 XTR M980 175mm Left Crank Arm Unit US $189.82
|
 Vintage 165 mm Crank Arm Non Drive Left Cottered Road Used US $12.99
|
 Profile Racing 180mm Left Crank Arm Black US $58.21
|
 Truvativ Left ISIS Crank Arm 175mm Black US $23.08
|
 Vintage SR SAKAE Left Crank Arm NOS 165mm Square taper US $12.95
|
 New Old Stock Campagnolo Campy Chorus Left Crankarm 1725 mmShopwear US $69.99
|
 BICYCLE LEFT CRANK ARM FOR SQUARE TAPER 170 MM SILVER US $13.95
|
 Shimano Yumeya XTR left crank arm bolt YM FC81 US $65.79
|
 New Old Stock Campagnolo Veloce Left Crankarm 175 mmShopwear US $29.99
|
 Cannondale SI Holllowgram Left Crankarm Alloy 170mm US $89.93
|
 Torq Left crank arm 175mm Alloy Square Taper NEW US $19.99
|
 Cannondale Hollowgram SL Left Crankarm Silver 170mm US $119.93
|
 Pyramid Left crank arm 175mm alloy Black NEW US $14.99
|
Loose Crank arm on mountain bike...?
The last mountain bike I bought, the Left crank arm came loose and fell off during a ride... I had checked it when I got it home from the store... it was tight, so I figured I'd upgrade and get a more expensive bike that was less likely to work loose... was out riding my new bike and the same thing happened... Could I possibly be doing something that is causeing this, or am I just gonna have to deal with retightening my left crank arm every other day???
You can have the most expensive bike on the planet and the crankarm will still fall off if it works loose. Depending on the material the crankarm is made of, a crankarm that is ridden loose may flare at the point at which it meets the spindle and may never tighten properly again.
Try this: Once you have verified that the part of your crankarm that seats on the bottom bracket spindle is NOT damaged from being ridden while loose, put a drop of light-duty thread-locking compound (like blue Loc-tite) on the threads. Make sure that there is no grease or anything else on the BB spindle before putting on the crankarm. Put on the fastening bolt and tighten it down until the crankarm seats most of the way. Finish tightening it down with a torque wrench. Check with your crank manufacturer for proper torque specs, but the average alloy crank, for example is good at 30 ft-lbs.
If you are concerned about your crankarms working loose again, simply check them with the torque wrench from time to time.
Hope this helps.
How to Sharpen Your Reel Lawn Mower â Part Two: Sharpening the Blades
Once you have determined that your blades do need sharpening, there are several way you can accomplish this. Whichever method you choose will depend on your personal preference. If you have lots of good arm strength and your mower is pretty clean go with the One Wheel Off Method. If your mower is dirty, use the Two Wheels Off Method so you can clean the parts and re-grease the reel shaft. If you aren't physically very strong, you may wish to try the Push Sharpening Method. And finally, if you have drill and socket bit set you may wish to give the Drill Bit Method a go.
One Wheel Off Method
If you have chosen to remove just one wheel, keep the pawl in place. You may wish to flip the mower over to its upright position or you can continue with it upside down, or even on its side. I prefer to flip is over to right-side up as it makes more sense to me.
Fit the sharpening crank over the shaft and pawl. Insert one of your pieces of paper between the blade and the knife blade at one end of the reel and turn the crank so the reel is moving forward, the same way it would be moving if you were mowing the lawn. You will want to continue the turning until all of the blades have had a chance to pass over the piece of paper so you can see if they are all cutting the paper smoothly. Repeat with more pieces of paper in the middle of the reel and then again on the opposite side that you started from. If the blades are not cutting the paper cleanly and easily all the way around then they need sharpening.
Apply the lapping compound to the cutting edges of the blades. Apply sparingly or it tends to run off the cutting edge, but ensure all cutting surfaces are well covered. Apply to all blades, turning the crank to turn the reel as needed to expose all of the blade. This time you will be turning the reel backwards, or the opposite way from the way it would turn if you were mowing.
Once all the cutting surfaces have been covered with lapping compound, turn the crank to turn the reel backwards for about 7-8 minutes. In some cases, the lapping compound will begin to change colour. You want to see that the cutting edge is bright and shiny with a smooth edge. This is hard work! Take breaks, Tom Sawyer your children into helping, or try using a drill bit (more below) to turn the reel.
Once you think the blades are sharp, repeat the paper test to ensure all cutting surfaces are sharp. If the paper is cut cleanly and easily then you are finished. Adjust the blades if needed.
Replace the gear, the wheel, the E ring (this will be harder to get back in than it was to pry off) and the side cover.
Two Wheels Off Method
With the mower upside down, remove the wheel cover, E ring, gear and pawl from the second side. Keep the pawl in place on the first wheel. Flip the mower over so it is right side up. Clean out any dirt as needed.
Fit the sharpening crank over the shaft and pawl. Insert one of your pieces of paper between the blade and the knife blade at one end of the reel and turn the crank so the reel is moving forward, the same way it would be moving if you were mowing the lawn. You will want to continue the turning until all of the blades have had a chance to pass over the piece of paper so you can see if they are all cutting the paper smoothly.Repeat with more pieces of paper in the middle of the reel and then again on the opposite side that you started from. If the blades are not cutting the paper cleanly and easily all the way around then they need sharpening.
Apply the lapping compound to the cutting edges of the blades. Apply sparingly or it tends to run off the cutting edge, but ensure all cutting surfaces are covered. Apply to all blades, turning the crank to turn the reel as needed to expose all of the blade. This time you will be turning the reel backwards, or the opposite way from the way it would turn if you were mowing.
Once all the cutting surfaces have been covered with lapping compound, turn the crank to turn the reel backwards for about 7-8 minutes. In some cases, the lapping compound will begin to change colour. You want to see that the cutting edge is bright and shiny with a smooth edge. This is hard work! Take breaks, Tom Sawyer your children into helping, or try using a drill bit (more below) to turn the reel.
Once you think the blades are sharp, repeat the paper test to ensure all cutting surfaces are sharp. If the paper is cut cleanly and easily then you are finished.
Adjust the blades if needed. Replace the gear, the wheel, the E ring (this will be harder to get back in than it was to pry off) and the side cover for one wheel then repeat for the second wheel.
Push Method
This method initially seems more complicated, but once we experienced the hard work of arm sharpening, the ease of push sharpening seems to far outweigh the slightly longer disassembly and reassembly time.
With the mower upside down, remove the wheel cover, E ring, gear and pawl from the second side. Keep the pawl in place on the first wheel. Flip the mower over so it is right side up. Clean out any dirt as needed.Fit the sharpening crank over the shaft and pawl. Insert one of your pieces of paper between the blade and the knife blade at one end of the reel and turn the crank so the reel is moving forward, the same way it would be moving if you were mowing the lawn. You will want to continue the turning until all of the blades have had a chance to pass over the piece of paper so you can see if they are all cutting the paper smoothly.
Repeat with more pieces of paper in the middle of the reel and then again on the opposite side that you started from. If the blades are not cutting the paper cleanly and easily all the way around then they need sharpening.We have not tried this method ourselves but came across it while reading reviews. His suggestion "Remove both wheels , remove and switch ratchet gears from L to R and vice versa, flip over pawls, apply compound and push the mower backwards for about 5 minutes". From reading this we assume he means to put the left gear and pawl on the right side of the reel shaft and vice versa. We also assume that you would need to replace the wheels to push it backwards.
Once you think the blades are sharp, you would then need to disassemble the wheels, repeat the paper test to ensure all cutting surfaces are sharp. If the paper is cut cleanly and easily then you are finished. Adjust the blades if needed. Switch the gears and pawls back to their original sides and then replace the wheels. We will update you if we try this method to let you know how it works. I think that once it was done once, it wouldn't seem as confusing and would be a lot easier than cranking by hand.
Drill Bit Method
There were many mentions of turning the reel with a drill. You will need to find a socket attachment that fits over the reel shaft, a 16 or 17 mm socket size were mentioned most often. We would recommend removing the pawl as it might fly out while the drill is turning the shaft. Follow the instructions for disassembly as for the One or Two Wheel method. If you removed both gears, we recommend you remove both pawls. Fit the socket over the reel shaft and let the drill do the work for you. No one seems to mention how long to do this but we imagine it would take far less time than by hand. Visually check your blades for sharpness after 3 or 4 minutes. Re-assemble the wheel(s) as for other methods.
That's it! It may seem complicated at but after the first time you will be a pro! If you are not sure if your blades need to be sharpened please see Part One of our series, How to Sharpen Your Reel Lawn Mower – Part One: When Should Your Blades Be Sharpened?
Â
About the Author
Teresa is an avid, eco-conscious, gadget-loving gardener who herself owns two reel lawn mowers. Visit www.bestreellawnmowerreviews.com for reviews of the most popular makes and models based on owners' comments as well as field tests and editorial reviews.
People Love These Road Bike Parts:
